Vineyard Designated Wines

Vineyard-designated wines are winemaker’s children. One vineyard might be the star athlete, another the class valedictorian, and the third the sullen, creative type that in a few years is destined for stardom.

Also known as single-vineyard wines, these are bottlings made from the grapes of a single vineyard. They are typically produced in small quantities and pricier than multi-vineyard wines. In order to understand a little better, some background information is helpful.

Throughout history, the differences in quality between one plot of land, and another, has been widely recognized by winemakers. Centuries ago, monks in Burgundy, France, drew maps of the best parcels of land for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. These grapes are so prized today that exorbitant sums of money are paid for the very best. Does the name Montrachet ring a bell? If you’re a die-hard Chardonnay fan, that name should be on your bucket list.

This phenomenon has only recently taken hold in the United States. The first single vineyard wine was Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. I can still recall the look of awe on my father’s face when the tasting room attendant poured a sample into his glass. It was 1976 and I was only ten, but I knew something special was in that bottle.

I recently stopped at Tacoma Boys for a bottle of wine to go with salmon. I had decided on Pinot Gris from Oregon, and when I saw the Vitae Springs Pinot Gris from St. Innocent Winery I snatched it up with sheer glee. St. Innocent is one of my favorite wineries because they produce the most delicious array of vineyard-designated wines.

Each has its own personality and it’s impossible to choose a favorite. One vineyard brings the mineral… the other brings fruit… one is lush, one is austere… one is big and bold, one is subtle, elegant, unfolding. The Vitae Springs had mineral with a hint of spice.

Perhaps the most appealing aspect of a vineyard-designated wine is the fact that the practice of placing the name of the vineyard on the label is recognition of its unique and noteworthy character. This truly embraces the concept of partnership between the grower and the winemaker, and, the notion of terroir. Terroir is a term used to express the importance of place, and that special combination of sun, soil, and climate that makes one place different than another.

But talk is cheap. If you really want a thrill, and a better understanding of what this is all about, you need to make a visit to a winery that makes a variety of single-vineyard wines. Tasting one winery’s Syrah from three different vineyards is eye opening. You might be surprised just how much volcanic vs. sedimentary soils can affect a wine’s flavor. And just like children, it’s often difficult to choose a favorite. But why choose when you can drink them all?

Suggested wineries to visit in Washington: McCrea Cellars, L’Ecole No. 41 Winery, Columbia Winery. In Oregon: St. Innocent Winery, Ken Wright Cellars. In California: Nickel & Nickel, Kistler, and Ridge Vineyards.